When Bruno Sialelli took over the helm of Lanvin last year I was less than impressed with his debut. I think part of this is due to the fact that I hadn’t been able to really love Lanvin since Alber Elbaz left in 2015. He did slowly start to pique my interest with this Spring 2020 RTW collection and I was definitely on board with his Fall 2020 RTW collection. Now I am full steam ahead in my love for the brand after seeing his Spring 2021 collection. In this collection I saw references to things learned from Sialelli’s past. Prior to taking the helm at Lanvin he had held senior positions at Paco Rabanne, Acne Studios, and Balenciaga under both Nicolas Ghesquière and Alexander Wang. We also saw a distinct not to Chinese style, which we can most likely attribute to the fact that Chinese conglomerate Fosun International. Part of this catering was forgoing the brands usual perch on the Paris Fashion Week circuit instead opting to show an in person presentation at the historic Yu Garden in Shanghai. “We can do a proper event there with hundreds of people,” Bruno Sialelli said to Vogue during a preview in Paris. “And to be very pragmatic, this is the market that is going to drive growth in luxury in general. It’s good for us to federate our community there.”The collection spanned eras of the Lanvin label starting with a series of Jeanne Lanvin’s robe de style. This is a drop-waist silhouette she loosely revived from the 19th century which features full hips. It moved through the 30’s and 40’s inspiration and then skipped the 50’s and right into the 60’s. It was an absolutely beautiful collection. From pieces that can be infused into the everyday, one of my favorites being a black cardigan emblazoned with a crystal embellished Trompe-l’œil bow across the chest. It was presented very formally with a robe de style inspired skirt. I could see someone purchasing this to wear with jeans for the everyday. Now there was no shortage of looks that are ready for the moment red carpets return to us. Find out eight of the looks I would like to see stars bring to life on red carpets, even virtually if we must. The first look in the collection, a black with a crystal bow across the hip—was virtually a replica of its 1920s original. “I like the idea of re-edition. But we’ve never seen this dress in real life, we’ve never tried it on. It belongs to the Galliera. I like to look at iconography and feel what it is and just do something out of it that’s modern,” Sialelli explained. It has been almost a century since the originals were first presented and sold. Now I feel like these new interpretations feel just as innovative and modern as they did back then. I feel like this is the kind of look I am craving to see from Natalie Portman. She used to wear quite a bit of Lanvin, even after she was under her Dior contract. Now this look would be made absolutely perfect for Natalie with a sleek low bun updo, defined eyes, bold matte red lips, a pair of black Christian Dior ‘Sweet-F’ floral motif embroidered tulle slingback pointed toe bow detailed pumps, and Nikos Koulis ‘Oui’ collection art deco inspired white gold pendant drop earrings with white diamonds and black enamel.
As I was watching the video from this collection I found myself saying oooooo that would be a great look for Fan Bingbing over and over again. The Chinese superstar is a true fashionista and I know that she would definitely be drawn to many of the looks that Bruno Sialelli sent down this runway. She knows how to deliver major “costume-y” moments on the red carpet, but in a way that doesn’t make me feel like she is attending a costume party. Many of the looks in this collection, especially the robe de style gowns, have the potential to be more costume like than modern. I would love to see Fan bring this look which features a quilted black a-line tea length skirt, a silver Trompe-l’œil beaded bow on the neckline, and a rose pink satin hip length opera coat to life. While the look does seem very stuck in days gone by the glamour is undeniable and if Fan knows how to deliver anything it is undeniable glamour. With a 40’s inspired Victory roll updo, winged defined cat eyes, bold deep red matte lips, a rose pink While the collection was opened with those very cut and dry historical re-issues there were also plenty of looks that ran the gambit of reference. I was drawn to the soft, feminine glamour of this blush pink chiffon draped wrap gown which features a floral print. The soft glamour isn’t as unapologetic as the robe de style looks, but I feel like for more of a laid back formal event that stars could be fighting for this gown. I immediately imagined it being worn by Evan Rachel Wood. Her gorgeous red hair styled in a loose romantic updo, soft bronze defined eyes, deep berry matte lips, a champagne gold Judith Leiber ‘Enchanted’ chain handle bag, a pair of nude Aquazzura ‘Vera’ silver crystal embellished strappy sandals, and Bulgari 18k gold set white diamond and ruby sunburst drop earrings would push this look over the ledge in terms of major glamour for Evan to bring to the red carpet.
The collection was also full of fantastic tailoring moments. I was drawn to the beige reinterpretation of the suit that included a double breasted oversized shawl lapel blazer which was styled with contrasting being button down with a sequined Trompe-l’œil beaded pussy bow, and high waisted shorts that was actually shown on a male model. I would definitely rock this look if I was headed to sit front row at a Lanvin show, but I also saw Julia Roberts immediately pop into my head when I saw this look. We saw this look in both the beige I am showing here, but also in black. I could see Julia wearing both, but I tire of seeing her in black looks so I definitely think that this beige look would be a great light moment for Julia. It could be dressed up with a romantic updo, soft bronze smokey eyes, antique rose pink matte lips, a nude marbled acrylic Edie Parker ‘Jean Solid’ clutch, a pair of tone on tone beige Aquazzura ‘Seine 105’ pointed toe pumps, and Mateo NY 14kt gold single pearl and white diamond drop earrings for more of a cocktail event or letting the hair down into loose waves, swapping for a nude glossy lip, and leaving the bag at home for a late night talk show appearance. Another great look that could be worn for more of casual or cocktail appearance is this gold silk pant set which features a chinoiserie inspired asymmetrical button down blouse with a chic metallic thread Koi fish embroidered paired with a v-banded wide leg pants. I could see Nicole Kidman rocking this look with sleek center parted hairstyle, defined eyes, rose pink lips, a pair of nude Aquazzura ‘Deneuve 105’ bow detailed pointed toe pumps, and a simple bit of sparkle via signed Fred Leighton contemporary floral cluster drop earrings with old mine cushion cut white diamonds.
I mentioned earlier that we saw a lot of reference to labels that Bruno Sialelli had previously worked at in this collection. One of the most evident was the red metal disc detailed looks reminiscent of the signature style from Paco Rabanne. They stood out like a sore thumb in the collection, but in a good way. While they didn’t exactly flow they were good looks. The gown (which you can see way above) to the skirt paired with a chic sweater it was a bold look I could see selling to some of the chicest women in the world. I thought about featuring the gown itself in these wishes, but given the more laid back times we live in I was really drawn to the skirt and sweater combination. I would LOVE to see Tessa Thompson, who has worn a couple looks from Lanvin by Sialelli since he’s taken the reigns, bring this look to life. It could be a great awards show from home look styled with a high long thick braid ponytail, thick defined eyes, matte nude lips, a pair of red crystal embellished Aquazzura ‘Tequila 105’ strappy sandals, and simple Anabela Chan ruby cushion wing stud earrings. There were so many fabulous looks in this collection I could have gone on and on in this review. Unfortunately I didn’t have the time to do so. I wanted to finish out by going back to the robe de style looks that opened the show once again. Out of any looks in the collection I feel these gowns have the most major red carpet potential. I just hope that while they are all similar that if, and when, one is worn that stars will wear other iterations. One that was different than the others was the steel grey and blush iteration which features a steel grey beaded lattice tank bodice with a plunging v-neckline and a blush tiered high low tea length a-line skirt. It paid homage to the originals from the 1920’s but felt very modern at the same time. Thinking about this major interpenetration on the red carpet the first person I would love to see it worn by is Kerry Washington. She knows how to deliver extreme glamour with an edge. To make this the major red carpet moment I would love to see Kerry style this look with a short pixie cut hairstyle, smokey eyes, deep red glossy lips, a pair of zinc silver Casadei ‘Blade Modern Love’ metallic laminated naplak leather and PVC detailed pointed toe strappy d’Orsay pumps, and a major selection of vintage jewels from Fred Leighton including old mine and old European cut white diamond antique drop earrings and a stack of signed old European cut white diamond and rose-cut white diamond bangles. It would be the perfect balance of dazzling glamour and edge.
My final wish is for the gorgeous Elle Fanning to wear the butter yellow tea length gown which features a halter neck on an illusion panel, drop waist, and beaded Trompe-l’œil bow. I can definitely picture Elle delivering this gown as the soft princess moment that it most definitely is. She knows how to handle these soft princess moments with regal ease. A sleek high big bun updo, thick defined eyes, bright pink lips, soft matching yellow Alevi ankle tie knotted sandals, and a selection of simple yet dazzling Tiffany & Co. jewels including white and yellow cushion cut drop earrings, a selection of white and yellow diamond bangle bracelets, a vintage white and yellow diamond flower ring, and a Schlumberger ‘Daisy’ white diamond and yellow band ring would all make this a major moment for Elle.