A sculptural extremization of fashion, magnified in all its theatricality, the Loewe Spring 2021 RTW collection is described by creative director Jonathan Anderson as a story of dramatic silhouettes exploring the craft of pattern making. This collection made me happy. It was a high volume, high octane, glamorous collection that pushed the boundaries of what fashion is. We saw a lot this season where event the most avant garde designers out there toned things down opting for more leisure based looks inspired by time spent in COVID lockdown. Instead Anderson delivered on fantasy; making me yearn for days where we will dress up again. “We have to start loving fashion again,” Anderson said to VOGUE Runway. “We don’t know what tomorrow’s going to bring. So let’s enjoy it!” I couldn’t agree more. We need to stop going back to leisure in seasonal colorways, but bring creativity to the forefront. We can always count of Jonathan Anderson to do that. Each season he gives us something different. Inspiration comes from all over but never seem to be recreations. Spiraling flaps. Balloon sleeves, balloon skirts. Crinolines. Neckerchief hems. Hoops. Giant knots. Roundness that gets bigger and bigger. A sense of elongation. Immaculate tailoring counterbalances feats of showmanship. Johnathan Anderson knows his customer isn’t interested in the basic. She wants to make a statement and she will definitely do that in this collection. Event the “basic” black skirts aren’t basic, but the elevated staples that the chicest women in the world will wear to tea or lunch styled down and then dress up for cocktail occasions. Coming up with the wishes to see this collection brought to life out of the lookbook (which was sent to editors, stylists, and influencers in big boxes to be played with on a wall like wallpaper) and onto the red carpet I really had to go to a slew of women who I feel consistently take risks. Women who aren’t afraid to be the most talked about women in the room. Let’s start my wishes with easily my favorite look from this collection which is the black birdcage woven leather cape with arm slots paired with a white silk faille dramatic bubble hem cocktail dress. I love this look for giving us medieval meets 60’s meets space age. It is not a look for the faint of heart. It needs someone who exudes presence and confidence no matter where she goes. I was having a hard time instinctively coming up with who I really wanted to see wear this look; so I went down the rabbit hole to see who had worn the label on the red carpet. The first person I saw was Tessa Thompson and my mind was pretty much sold. But then I thought of Janelle Monae. The singer and actress is known for not just her love of black and white, but also for very avant garde sartorial choices. Now while Janelle is petite and on paper this look should swallow her whole I do believe it would be an MAJOR fashion moment. A sleek updo, smokey eyes, bold red lips, a black satin Jimmy Choo ‘Callie’ beaded fringe embroidered chain strap sack evening bag, a pair of black suede and mesh Jimmy Choo ‘Liu 100’ strappy stiletto sandals, and dazzling Yeprem white diamond swirl wreath earrings would definitely put the perfect finishing touches to this look.
Now talking about avant garde fashion one of the most avant garde looks in this collection was the gold ruched silk bubble dress with a black tulle overlay is one of the most avant garde looks of the season. It gives me MAJOR high fashion modernism meets classical Renaissance ruff vibes. It is definitely not a look that many will be able to bring to life, but as I was looking at Loewe lovers I could definitely imagine Chloë Sevigny bringing this look to life. She has the weird sense of style that I feel like would make this look super cool especially if styled with a loose romantic updo, defined eyes, red lips, a pair of black satin Roger Vivier ‘Broche Vivier’ crystal bucked detailed pointed toe loafer inspired pumps, and a selection of sparkle via Pomellato jewels including ‘Sabbia’ circle drop earrings in 18K rose gold with 60 black treated diamonds and a ‘Sabbia’ bangle bracelet in rhodium-plated and burnished rose god with brown and white diamonds. Not all of the looks in the collection were unapologetically dramatic glamour. We also saw Jonathan Anderson give some major moments that balance the more masculine and feminine. I do love that he gives us a fantastic balance of masculinity and femininity. This was displayed perfect with an all black look which features a polo inspired blouse that is given the Loewe twist adding major voluminous sleeves paired with wide leg pants. I feel like it could be a really good red carpet look for Billie Eilish. It has her oversized fit that she is known for, but I feel like it would be a cool fashion look for her thanks to those amazing sleeves. A pair of black and white Sergio Rossi ‘Sergio Extreme’ Swarovski crystal embellished ribbon detailed sneakers, her signature black and acid green hair, and acid green Prada ‘Linea Rossa’ active style sunglasses would make this a super cool moment for Billie.
Another cool menswear moment was the navy silk suit with voluminous cuffs on the blazer and couture like parachute pants. I immediately thought of Loewe devotee Tilda Swinton. She is the master of blurring the line between masculinity and femininity, but the day after I edited the pictures for this post the amazing Tracee Ellis Ross wore this look for Jimmy Kimmel and it was phenomenal. It blew away my expectations so I wasn’t upset that it was worn before I could put a wish put into the universe. Jonathan Anderson even knows how to make a little black dress anything but basic. Two LBDs stood out to me specifically. The first was a draped voluminous eyelet dress with a ruffled v-neckline and a wide a-line skit. It is such a flirty yet moody moment and I would love to see Rooney Mara rock it on a red carpet. I honestly think that it was the models pose (which is Rooney’s signature) is what made me think of Rooney, but I know that it is definitely something she would be drawn to. Giving this look a boost of glamour with a sleek top knot, defined eyes, bold red lips, black leather Alexander McQueen ankle strap sandals, and a pair of delicate Cartier High Jewelry white diamond pear shaped filigree inspired drop earrings would make it a beautiful red carpet moment.
The other is the tiered scalloped skirt a line cocktail dress. I could see this dress being a hit on the sales floor. I feel like there is a wide range of women who could really walk this look. It could speak to the uptown and downtown girls. I would love to see Nina Dobrev bring this dress to life on the red carpet sometime styled with a sleek center parted hairstyle tucked behind the ears, defined eyes, bold red lips, a black satin Sophia Webster ‘Clara Butterfly’ clasp clutch, black Gianvito Rossi ‘Freesia d’Orsay’ cutout ankle strap pointed toe pumps, and a selection of Nikos Koulis ‘Oui’ collections jewels including a pair of white gold earrings with oval blue sapphires, pear shape, round and trillion white diamonds and black enamel and a white gold ring with a marquise cut white diamond and black enamel. Overall I am thrilled with this collection. And well while I’m at it why not add one more with for Erykah Badu to wear that pink and white voluminous ensemble above right with a pair of coral, orange, and white Nike ‘Daybreak’ low top trainers and a two tone pink Borsalino ‘Folar’ wide brimmed hat.