Jacquemus Spring 2021: A Field of Over Hyped Wheat

In the midst of a global pandemic Simon Porte Jacquemus decided to move forward with a full in person fashion show, complete with guests. It was among the first (we also recently saw Etro and Dolce & Gabbana have in person shows) live fashion shows we have seen since the start of the global Coronavirus quarantine in March. WWD talked to Simon about his decision to have an in person event. “It’s not negotiable,” he said. “It’s at the heart of the strategy for a house like mine.…It’s a special moment, an emotion you transmit.” I don’t agree with his choice to have an in person event, but it did seem very much slimmed down in terms of guests. Now that being said I would have never made the trip to see this collection walk a runway. I feel like in terms of creativity, construction, and idea Jacquemus falls super short. This is a brand all about the hype. It is all about the Insta models and living a lifestyle that flaunts excess and rewards mediocrity. The collection might have been dubbed “L’Amour” but there really wasn’t much to love. Yes the collection did feature some good pieces the majority of the 55 mixed women’s and men’s looks there weren’t many I really enjoyed. It was really about 8 full looks, and a couple of other pieces from others. The best thing about the presentation was the location. A wheat filed culled perfectly in the French Vexin Regional Natural Park he laid over 600 meters of wood planking to create an picturesque location. Now if only the clothes lived up to the drama of the location. Reading Harper’s Bazaar (a magazine institution I truly respect) say of this collection “It was seductive, a bit melancholy, and incredibly romantic” and VOGUE calling it “a masterstroke” just make me roll my eyes so far back into my head it feels like they will make a full circle. There were 100 guests in attendance at the show including Maisie Williams, Jeanne Damas and Isabelle Adjani. I’m sure all were looking for their next red carpet look, whenever that may come about. Now while I have ripped this collection to shreds so far there was ONE look that really spoke to me. This white linen gown which features square neck, thin straps at shoulder and bodice, a drop waist, and a voluminous tiered hem was actually a masterwork in simplistic elegance. Linen isn’t a fabrication I associate with evening-wear, but this gown definitely makes it work. This look is a perfect canvas for building a major fashion moment. I saw this look and thought immediately of Laura Harrier. I can picture her making this look come to life with a bun of braids, smokey eyes, deep burgundy matte lips, a pair of white Rene Caovilla teardrop crystal fringe trimmed two strap mule sandals, and a statement multi-colored fancy stone and white diamond Bulgari ‘Barocko’ collection collar necklace. Styled just like that this linen gown would fit right in on a major red carpet like the Emmy Awards alongside the silks, chiffons, and satins.All in all I am just over Jacquemus as a brand, but I get he sells a lifestyle that appeals to those with high disposable income. I will never be that rich, and even if I were there are other brands out there that do this idea much better. It is all about the social media for Jacquemus and this presentation shows he knows how to do it extremely well. If you want to see the whole collection you can do so by watching the show below.

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