Giambattista Valli Fall 2020 Couture: Frothy Drama

Giambattista Valli’s Fall 2020 Haute Couture collection, their 19th (crazy to think about since I remember 1), is dedicated to “La Ville Lumière” and to the support of the Art of the Ateliers. Haute Couture seen not only as the “Excellence” of dressmaking, but also about culture, gestures and rituals, seen as an experiment with the silhouette, the shape and cuts that creations play in the surrounding space. I have always seen Giambattista Valli as a master couturier. He may not bring incredibly dazzling head to toe beaded creations like Georges Hobeika and Elie Saab. He does know how to use embellishment correctly and sparingly, but the power of Giambattista Valli’s creations lies mostly in its construction. He is definitely a master couturier, BUT as I have said a couple of times this season about other designers I am hoping that Giambattista Valli will start to bring something a little different to the runway meshing his signature frothy drama with more boundary pushing avant garde designs like he did in his early couture collections. This season’s focus are indeed volumes and the fundamental techniques that build the DNA of the Maison Giambattista Valli. Mousseline and chiffons are skillfully draped, tulle is multi-layered in cascades of ruffles that create extra-ordinary shapes and faille and taffetas are cut to, by themselves, give life to remarkable bows. Fabric sculptures are created with the cut of a scissor with the aime to spread and share beauty. Colors include red like the lipstick marks often found on empty cups on the tables of Parisian cafés, black like the notorious “Petite Robe Noire”, pink like the wild roses growing in the city’s gardens and ivories like the moulures that adorn windows and ceilings. Overall there are many confections from this collection that I feel like could be major red carpet moments. I only have wishes in this review for two. The first being the white tulle ‘Coquetips et Cristal’ strapless ballgown which features red feather embroidery all over and a ruffled neckline bustier bodice. This look is signature Giambattista Valli and could definitely be something fantastical on the likes of Fan Bingbing or Araya A. Hargate in Cannes next year, but honestly I think that if Westworld gets an Emmy nomination this year that Tessa Thompson should snatch this gown up. The second is the “La Marie” or the bride from the collection. The strapless tulle tiered mermaid gown is definitely red carpet worthy and would definitely be a dramatic glam moment for the likes of Kate Beckinsale or Dua Lipa. This season the the collection is presented in the form a video and images that, alongside the creations, shows fragments of Paris and its nature seen through the eyes and the camera of Giambattista Valli himself. You can check out the video below and stay tuned for my round up wishes from Fall 2020 Couture coming up soon.

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