One of my resolutions this year was to feature more menswear on If I Was A Stylist. Since the beginning of the year I have incorporated menswear into more than 40 posts. That’s already more than any previous year I’ve covered menswear since adding the men’s component back in 2015. I feel like menswear has gotten more and more adventurous on both the runways and the red carpets in the couple of years. Men like Armie Hammer, John Legend, Timothee Chalamet, Pharrell, Dave Franco, and Chadwick Boseman have all pushed the boundaries of what men can wear on the red carpet from your classic black, navy, or white dinner jacket tuxedo. Within the menswear collections that came down the runways of London, Milan, Paris, and New York City we saw many potential red carpet moments that would continue to push the boundaries of what is expected from menswear on the red carpet. Alexander McQueen: Kicking off my Spring 2019 Menswear wishes is Alexander McQueen. I personally could have nothing buy Alexander McQueen in my closet and be incredibly happy. The brand always brings this bold twist to classic cuts and tailoring and that is what my personal style is. The collection was inspired by the works of artist Francis Bacon and the photographer John Deakin who were secret lovers in 1950’s SOHO London. The collection is an exploration of the push and pull between what a man feels he has to be, and what he wants to do. That is an idea that plays right into being gay in the time of the artists that inspired the collection. I think that with that in mind that picking Timothee Chalamet to rock this black tuxedo with metallic red fringe threadwork on the red carpet. He gives that vibe of fluid sexuality and I really do believe that he would definitely sell this statement look to me on a red carpet.
Balmain: Michael Jackson was on the soundtrack at Olivier Rousting’ Spring 2019 presentation for Balmain and that inspiration leaked onto the runway. If you mixed Jackson’s style, who was a big fan of the circa 2009 Balmain womenswear jackets, with the streets of 80’s New York City and the boardwalks of Marseilles you would have the perfect meshing of this collection, once you add a whole lot of crystal embellishments. Balmain is not for the man shy of heart. If you are afraid of embellishment or color then you should just walk right past a Balmain boutique, surprisingly the head to toe look from this collection is completely devoid of any embellishment. You could be the perfect modern iteration of Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” (meets French seaside chic) wearing this ensemble which features a red leather moto jacket, blue and white sailor stripe knit top, and light wash cuffed skinny fit jeans and I think that if anyone could make it come to life it would be John Legend, after all he did play Jesus in Balmain jeans for Jesus Christ Superstar. Dior Man: One of the most anticipated shows of Paris Fashion Week was Kim Jones debut at Dior Man (formerly Dior Homme.) It seemed like a break from what we are used to seeing from Mr. Jones. It was a predominately pastel pallet with hits of brown, navy, grey, bright yellow, and black. Usually we have seen Mr. Jones (while at LV) go for a bolder use of primary colors and then muted tones and that is what we are also used to seeing from Dior Homme, but this was like a breath of fresh air. It was a new creative director with a new vision for the brand. A$AP Rocky has been a loyal ambassador for Dior’s menswear in the past, in fact he was perched front row at this show, and I think that he would rock the pink asymmetrical loose fit double breasted suit from the collection. Regular readers will also note that I’ve already put this look in a wish for the statuesque Gwendoline Christie as well.
Dolce & Gabbana: I mentioned in my couture wishes yesterday that I wonder what the future of Dolce & Gabbana will be. I have long seen the demise of the brand when it’s focus seemed to be more on churning out more of the same and over-saturating the market. That doesn’t happen as much with the menswear. The Dolce & Gabbana menswear shows have been studded with looks that push the boundaries on what is expected from menswear. They play with color, pattern, and embellishment for men on the red carpet. To make a look like this black and white double breasted tuxedo with printed pants and matching lapels it will take someone who has incredible confidence and that is why I want to see it on Michael B. Jordan.
Fendi: I don’t know what has been in the water at Fendi but Karl has been killing the game with his designs for the house lately. I did love the very 90’s collection that Karl sent down the runway for Fendi Spring 2019 Menswear was definitely full of “oooooo I want that in my closet now” moments. When it comes to the red carpet we don’t really see a whole lot of Fendi menswear rocked by men. One of the few who has is Tommy Dorfman and I definitely think that he would rock this white ensemble with a gold and brown stripe down the sweater. It would be something fashion yet still laid back for one of his more casual appearances.
Louis Vuitton: I think that the most iconic show of all the menswear shows was Virgil Abloh’s debut at Louis Vuitton. He is the first black creative director at LV and he brought a new dynamic to the brand. He brought what we have come to expect from LV, but done in a bright new street wear inspired manner. It was an ombre rainbow runway and the collection was also all about the bold color. Virgil meshed The Wiz with Kanye West and it actually worked. Virgil danced somewhere over the rainbow right on into history. It was an obviously emotional moment when Virgil stepped out for his bow and made a b-line for Kanye and gave the best hug and just cried. It was honest and raw and you can tell that he was really proud of everything that he has accomplished, and he very well should have. I am very interested in seeing what stars will do with this collection from the red carpet. I went with probably the easiest look to translate to the red carpet wishing that Donald Glover would snatch up this red two button suit with matching t-shirt and cognac leather harness. It is the most “standard” of the looks that came down this runway, but I still think it would be one hell of a red carpet moment. M.X. Maxime Simoëns: A few years ago I was obsessed with the cocktail dresses and gowns that Maxime Simoëns sent down the runway. But then LVMH pulled its funding of the designers womenswear and couture lines. He recently reemerged launching a menswear line M.X. Maxime Simoëns. For Spring 2019 the French designer took inspiration from American coastal dressing, but with a very distinct French take on it. I think that is exactly why I think Ryan Gosling came to mind. He has this relaxed take on American dressing and I think that the denim jacket, tropical printed shirt, navy trousers, and white sneakers would be a head to toe runway look that he would be drawn to.
Ralph Lauren: When it comes to classic menswear with a twist one of the best brands to look to is Ralph Lauren. The cuts and styles don’t change from season to season, but the collections never feel repetitive. Mr. Lauren knows how to create new prints and use new materials to create something that always seems fresh. Armie Hammer loves a classic menswear cut with a modern twist and I definitely think that we could see him wear this black and white wave print tuxedo jacket with a contrasting shawl collar for one of his movie premieres, he does have another Oscar contender coming up.
Saint Laurent: At the beginning of the season Anthony Vaccarello bucked his usual spot on the Paris Fashion Week – Men’s calendar opting to show in the shadow of New York City before celebrating the re-opening of the Saint Laurent NYC flagship store. That show gave slim easy takes on menswear that had classic shapes with great beading, print, leather, and embroidery and was presented to a star studded crowd that included Kate Moss, Dave Franco, Julianne Moore, and Tommy Dorfman. A devoted fan of Saint Laurent is G-Easy and I think that he would definitely take this black and gold striped double breasted tuxedo jacket and rock it on the red carpet.
Tom Ford: Rounding out this list is Tom Ford. Would it really be a menswear list if I didn’t feature one look from Tom Ford? I am not one to say I would always wear one brand from head to toe, but I have to say that if I only had to wear just one brand for the rest of my life it would probably be Tom Ford. Like I said about Ralph Lauren Tom Ford also delivers new takes on classic styles every season, but he tends to play more with color, metallics, and texture rather than print. This chic rose gold leopard jacquard tuxedo jacket paired with an off white silk button down and classic black tuxedo pants is perfect for someone like Tom Brady, to bring to a red carpet even though he rarely does a red carpet.