Diorchella: Maria Grazia Chiuri Take Dior West For Cruise 2018

Last night in the shadow of the mountains of Calabasas at the Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her fifth collection for Christian Dior with the labels Cruise 2018 collection. I have been a slow roll to jump on board with Maria’s vision of Dior and I am still not the biggest fan, but this collection pushed me a little closer. It was unexpected, yet totally expected at the same time. Since Chiuri took the helm at Dior back with the labels Spring 2017 RTW collection we have seen the label explode onto the red carpets, but not necessarily with great success. I see Chiuri more as an every day ready to wear designer than one who pushes the envelope. She doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but rather one who reinterprets the successes each season. We see this happen all the time with labels like Alexander McQueen, Prada, Gucci, Victoria Beckham, Chanel, and Marc Jacobs the differences between those labels and what Maria Grazia Chiuri is doing at Dior is that those labels keep those looks saved for commercial market presentations and give more envelope pushing looks on the runway.  There was a lot of more of the same in this collection. We saw eight of the corset bodice, square neck, a-line, midi skirt dresses with logomainia straps that we have seen stars like Bella Hadid and Diane Kruger wearing several times on the red carpet. I looked at every collection that Chiuri has presented for Dior and found that she has presented and including the ones from this show we have seen this look presented in twenty one different ways over five seasons. I am getting a little bored. What saved this collection was the French glamour meets Georgia O’Keeffe ease that paraded through this entire collection. I think that The earthy tones of this  collection were a perfect compliment to the setting and I do see many wearable pieces. I can see street style mavens like Anna Dello Russo, Chiara Ferragni, and Giovanna Battiglia Engelbert all bringing pieces of this collection to life on the front rows of international fashion weeks and sidewalks around the world. To come up with the inspiration for this collection Chiuri looked to Monsieur Christian Dior and his love of LA. Mr. Dior loved more about LA than just it’s connection to the Hollywood glitterati. He loved that just outside of the city that there is such connection to nature, a place to reconnect with ones self and find grounding. I think that meshes perfectly with the western aesthetic of painter Georgia O’Keeffe perfectly. While doing research for this collection Chiuri saw the curated exhibit on the painter and her life and work at the Brooklyn Museum and noted it as part of the driving inspiration of this collection. Chiuri also looked within the house to see what she could put on her mood board for this collection. She found Mr. Dior’s 1952 ‘Lasaux’ collection which found it’s inspiration in the then newly discovered ancient cave paintings in the south of France. That inspired embroideries and prints. Coats covered in hand prints, stick figure like depictions of animals mixed with plaids and scroll prints. The textures in the show also evoked that connection with nature and relaxed glamour. Wool, knits, feathers, denim, suede, raffia, and leather all matriculated in such a beautiful way.  For this seasons destination show Dior shuttled over 300 guests and 60 models from the likes of Santa Monica and Los Angeles to the Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space for the show. They sat on low benches under canvas tents with branded blankets provided at each seat to fight the evening chill, evoking the spirit off the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival with its glamping lifestyle. Among the guests chauffeured to the desert included VIP’s like Solange Knowles, Rihanna, Charlize Theron, Miranda Kerr, Demi Moore, Teresa Palmer, Camilla Belle, Brie Larson, Kelly Rowland, Frieda Pinto, Laura Dern, Kiernan Shipka, Kate Bosworth, Nick Jonas, and Anjelica Huston. The guests were treated to cocktails like the very LA green juice paired with vodka and at the after party Solange performed. The likes of Rihanna, Charlize, and Miranda Kerr all wore looks that were off the runway incarnations of the looks presented for the Cruise 2018 collection. With the Cannes Film Festival less than a week away now I would bet at least one of these looks makes it off the runway and onto the red carpets. We could see the likes of Freida Pinto, Rihanna, Uma Thurman, Isabelle Huppert, Jessica Chastain, Nicole Kidman, Elle Fanning, or Lily Collins wearing this collection during Cannes. Other stars that I want to see wearing this collection on and off the red carpet include Bella Hadid, Cate Blanchett, Dakota Johnson, Sienna Miller, Natalie Portman, Kate Hudson, Diane Kruger, Allison Williams, Anna Wintour, Claire Danes, Daisy Ridley, Emmy Rossum, Jessica Chastain, Julianne Moore, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Reese Witherspoon, Riley Keough, Rose Byrne, Zoe Saldana, Emma Watson, Iman, Marion Cotillard, Padma Lakshmi, Zhang Ziyi, Amal Clooney, Nieves Alvarez, Anya Taylor Joy, Bella Heathcote, Elle Fanning, Emily Blunt, Emma Stone, Alicia Vikander, Gwen Stefani, Kate Beckinsale, Michelle Dockery, Lupita Nyong’o, Naomie Harris, Ruth Negga, Thandie Newton, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Yara Shahidi.

You can check out all my favorite looks from the Resort 2018 collections and my immediate wishes as to who I want to wear them over on my Pinterest page.



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